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It has been said that if you survive Minnesota the rest of the world is easy. Most folks think that there are two seasons here, winter is coming and winter is here. But seriously, even though this is the northernmost point in the 48 states it's not that bad. We have over 15,000 lakes, over 6,500 rivers and streams, which translates to 900,000 miles of shoreland. This is more than California, Florida and Hawaii combined. The largest federal wilderness east of the Rockies (The boundary Waters) lies in the northern part of this state and encompasses almost 1.1 million acres, so it's easy to see why our wolf population is second only to Alaska. With so much to see up here it's a good thing we have one of the longest life spans in the U.S., second only to Hawaii. (I'm almost positive that hibernation as something to do with this). And believe it or not, we even have caves up here!

Glaciers were responsible for tearing away the limestone and creating most of our lakes, but fortunately they retreated before they reached the extreme southeastern corner of Minnesota. Not one single lake can be found here, for this is limestone country. Trout streams abound and are bordered by magnificent limestone cliffs, hardwood forests, and scenic rolling meadows. Sinkholes are familiar sights around these parts and one town, Fountain, Minnesota, even calls itself the "sinkhole capital of the USA".

If you're a caver, this is sinkhole heaven; so many sinkholes and so many possible caves! But the reality is that there are only a handful of known cave systems here. For a well-seasoned cave finder like myself this is good news, because about the only way to find a cave in this territory is at the bottom of one of these sinkholes. But since most sinkholes have not been probed, there are few known caves. It seems as though most cavers would like to find and explore unknown caves but few are willing to take the risks and responsibilities associated with it, or to spend money to do so.

Well, meet me, John Ackerman. I'm proud to say I have taken the risks, shouldered the responsibility and spent the money. I really can't say jut when or why all this started but I know I was born with cave blood in me because since I was a little boy I was always lurking around caves. Fortunately, I survived this period to become an adult, which was when I joined an organized caving club. I'm pretty sure that's about when this whole thing took off. I can say for sure that "organized" caving for me was like giving a pyromaniac a lit match in a hayloft. I admit that before I joined our local NSS-sanctioned grotto I was somewhat aggressive in my caving style, but

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after joining I became even more so! All thanks to club member Dave Gerboth. We immediately teamed up together to pursue three goals: find and explore new caves, find and explore new caves, and find and explore new caves.

It was 1987 and times were good. We had the keys to a 13-mile-long show cave (Mystery Cave) and spent many seasons pushing leads and finding passages in this fabulous cave system. Unfortunately when the government purchased it, cave exploration ceased. Subsequently Dave and I roamed around the area, successfully exploring and pushing other local caves and sinkholes.

One mid-summer morning we found ourselves knocking on a local farmer's door, asking if the rumor was true that the farm had recently changed hands. If this was indeed true, we had a shot at inspecting a former show cave that was located on this property. This former show cave, Spring Valley Caverns, had only operated for one season, and had been closed since 1968. Under no circumstances would the previous

owners allow access to anyone. Needless to say, we were astonished when the farmer not only granted us access to the cave but also urged us to check out all the karst features on his new 470-acre farm!

Clearly, this was not your typical farmer, nor was this a typical farm. After touring the property, I was simply in awe. This place had it all: towering limestone bluffs bordering a wild meandering trout stream, virgin hardwood forests, rolling meadows, springs, sinking streams, and most importantly, 40 sinkholes! All this was located only 1.5 hours south of our home base, the Twin Cities. On our very first visit Dave and I probed two sinkholes which netted us two caves. The farmer was just as ecstatic as we were and insisted that we return the very next weekend. We did, and the rest was history. Under his blessing we started some pretty serious sinkhole digs, and when we were abruptly stopped by huge limestone slabs he actually insisted we use explosives to get the job done! This was not a good thing. With my type-A caving personality, combined with Dave's "go for it-just do it" attitude, and now




a major landowner playing off my weaknesses, I just knew my wife would want to increase my life insurance. And so she did, to one million dollars.

In 1990, after several years and more cave discoveries, the landowner decided to retire and relocate to a smaller farm. After intense and difficult negotiations I purchased roughly 180 acres from him and fought for and received perpetual underground protective cave rights under the remaining unsold farmland. Dave and I theorized that Spring Valley Caverns, including any future caves that may be discovered on my new property, had potential to expand under land that would not be owned by me. (We had been working in Spring Valley Caverns for the past year, widening a tight passage with stiff barometrically controlled winds that headed under such land.) All the late-night negotiations, attorneys fees and legal jargon paid off handsomely because shortly after the ink dried, I broke through this tight lead within Spring Valley Caverns and literally walked through miles of virgin passage. This former on-half mile show cave would now become a major 5.5 mile long cave system and spread out under the very land I had just locked up the cave rights to. It was increasingly becoming very apparent that my new "Cave Farm" was an important karst model that deserved to be shared, protected and shown to all. Therefore in 1990, I started to take legal steps to assure that after my death this property would remain preserved for future generations.

Over the next ten years Dave and I discovered numerous additional caves on the property, which increased the total number of caves on the Cave Farm to 14. At 5.5 miles long, Spring Valley Caverns is the longest, but there are several other significant caves that stretch ½ mile each. Along the way it was necessary to purchase additional parcels of land to install three of the ten man-made cave entrances currently located on the Cave Farm. Whew!

C O N S E R V A T I O N

Land conservation is also crucial at the Cave Farm. A tree-plating campaign was launched many years ago after Oak Wilt and Dutch Elm slowly crept through some of the forests. This campaign continues today with a commitment to plant at least 20 twelve-foot tall trees each spring. In addition, we decided to sacrifice the income from cattle grazing and ban the activity all together, as it was gradually destroying the forests.

Sinkhole protection and restoration is always a concern and was addressed early on when a garbage-filled sinkhole was totally restored. This major sinkhole, measuring 75 feet wide by 200 feet long by 18 feet deep, was returned to its natural state after removing and recycling ton after ton of garbage that had been deposited there on a

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continual basis since the later 1800's. This three-year backbreaking project received a lot of local and national exposure and ended up being a positive educational event for many people and organizations. An international story of the process was broadcast via satellite to 55 million subscribing homes in the U.S., Hawaii and Mexico.

The commentary and visual effects were hard impacting, because not only was it possible to see the sinkhole which was poised over the cave, but it was also possible to view the bottom of the trash filled sinkhole from within the cave itself. One could follow a long line of truck tires, gas tanks and assorted garbage strewn along major passages within the cave, all on the way to an underground stream! Many state agencies, nature groups, and cavers regularly visit this area within Spring Valley Caverns, which lends itself to a graphic educational experience.

Land acquisition has become critically important due to the expansion of the world-renowned Mayo Clinic and the IBM Headquarters, which are located 25 minutes away in Rochester, Minnesota. Recently, thousands of families have relocated to Rochester and are seeking scenic rural setting for home sites. This has affected land

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values, which are now $2500 per acre and more. Land acquisition is considered a keystone element in protecting and preserving the Cave Farm Karst Preserve, and so an urgent push has been made to acquire additional adjoining property. Subsequently, two adjoining parcels have recently been acquired, which increases the Cave Farm holding to 325 surface acres (over ½ section of land), combined with an additional 205 acres of underground rights to neighboring lands.

E X P L O R A T I O N

From the very start it was apparent that that only way to find and explore caves in this region would be to excavate sinkholes. I learned early on that this procedure is risky. Over time, Dave Gerboth and I have learned how to construct shoring and scaffolding to protect ourselves while digging downward, and to help safely remove the debris. It was in these early years, while digging down in a sinkhole, that we were stopped cold by a large slab, forcing us to explore all rock removal options. Ultimately, our only solution was to resort to using a baggie of arm fertilizer mixed with a little fuel oil. This did the trick nicely, enabling me to break up the large limestone slab so we could continue excavating down to the "cave level," which around here is only about 20 feet down. After finding an opening at the bottom of the sink and performing Houdini-like tricks, I managed to negotiate my way down a long, treacherous, super-tight horizontal passage that was filled with quicksand, except for the top 3 inches. I eventually broke through, more dead than alive, and found a major spectacular cave system, which encompassed three rock layers and reached a depth of 135 feet! Unfortunately, only one other person who was crazy enough to take his life in his hands was able to see this cave due to the "Intestinal Crawl."

It was painfully obvious that an artificial entrance would be necessary to provide a safe means of access, and prevent soil and contaminants from entering the cave through the opened sinkhole. an artificial entrance had never been created in this state before so I had no example to go by. We determined that the best place to install this entrance would be through the top of a dome, and the project began in earnest. After the topsoil was removed, we scratched our head wondering what to do with the remaining 37 feet of solid limestone that lay between us and the cave. Subsequently, I rented a huge commercial jackhammer with a tow-behind air compressor, but since the jackhammer just skipped across the bedrock, all I gained from this procedure was a loss of hearing and swollen arms. Frustrated, to say the least, I resorted to using what worked early in - fertilizer and fuel oil. I was slow going but after many backbreaking weekends I




eventually created a nice clean 30-inch diameter hole into the center of the dome. A heavy-duty, rust resistant culvert was installed, a custom ladder was built, and a lockable steel lid with inside safety release was designed and built. The surrounding surface area was meticulously graded and seeded and the original sinkhole entrance was closed back up. Several months later it was impossible to detect that this area once looked like a battle zone.

Most cavers were simply giddy after touring the cave and I felt proud that I had accomplished something monumental, especially considering the risks involved. Imagine how I felt when one day I found out the some member of our local grotto were simply hysteric that I had used EXPLOSIVES. I had never been exposed to this type of convulsive reaction and could not understand how they could label someone irresponsible for using a chemical tool to simply remove or break rock. Shortly after opening this cave I joined the NSS and read that there were many organized cavers that felt the same way they did. I had always considered myself an outgoing environmentalist and was confused by these people. I figured some of them may have even caved with me, but may not have

recognized me. If they had taken notice they would have seen that I was the one in the back, the one who would silently pick up trash along the cave passage after the first four "explosive bashing" cavers would walk over it. I eventually began to re alize that these folks truly meant well but maybe had never been in a position where they had to make a touch decision, or perhaps they had seen instances in other states where cavers had used explosives foolishly and needlessly.

The cold, hard fact in this region is that finding caves and pushing existing cave passages requires its usage. Period. Explosives are expensive, almost impossible to obtain, are risky, and are only to be considered as a last resort. Trust, me, if there was an alternative I would have embraced it rather than go through the hell I pad to obtain them. When I started purchasing explosives in 1989 (when they were reasonably priced), the explosives dealer would send tem via UPS directly to my country home where they were simply deposited on my front steps! All that changed after the Oklahoma incident, when it was required that I obtain an almost impossibly unattainable Federal Explosive License, in addition to my local county license. In-cave

explosive storage became a major hurdle, which was eventually resoled along with a vast number of other requirements. Then, only after using a one million candlepower searchlight to examine every orifice in my mind and body, was I awarded the coveted license. Goodly , now I was legal to purchase outrageously expensive explosives!

But then came the worst nightmare of all. The local county instigated a sinkhole policy that effectively banned all activity in and adjacent to sinkholes. Subsequently, my only available option was to apply for a QUARRY LICENSE! Oh, it was a real treat trying to explain to 80 hostile combative local farmers at a late night county meeting that I really don't need a quarry license but I really do. Thankfully, since many State and County agencies regularly conduct educational tours through my caves I was successful in obtaining the necessary license. I have discovered that exploration doesn't come cheap.

With all the politics, legalities and changes that have occurred, it should be noted that the conservation policy I established early on is still in effect today. It states that in the rare event that a passage has to be widened a few inches by explosive or by sediment

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removal, the spoils are not allowed to remain where they fall. Every ounce is transported outside or is transported to an undetectable low spot in the cave and is covered with a layer of dirt so the passage is undetectable from the rest. IN addition, when creating an artificial entrance all rubble is removed from the cave. Eventually I began inviting the concerned critics into my caves, telling them that if they could detect one single spot where I used explosives I would deed the cave over to them to do as they please. No one could and no one did.

I probably could have done more to quash their fears by attending and participating at our clubs month meetings. But in almost 20 years I have only attended one meeting, even though I am a staunch supporter of organized caving and even twist the arms of those who visit the Cave Farm to become members of our local chapter, as well as the NSS. Since the majority of activity up here centers around the Cave Farm, this is where I feel I can educate, lead, inform and set examples by doing.

But no matter what anyone said or thought, the thrill of discovering, exploring, protecting and sharing an underground wilderness was permanently engraved in my core. As technology caught up with me, thanks to the revolutionary battery-powered

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hammer drill, I abandoned the explosive Kinepak, which needed to be packed with mud, and switched to Detonating Cord, which is the ultimate in efficiency. Because of "The Drill," I began discovering caves in rapid succession - but also discovered that my body was rapidly receding! Hard core caving began to take its toll, but after two or three weekly trips to the chiropractor, I would be recharged for the following weekend. The bruises, however, did not go unnoticed by my wife, who subsequently increased my life insurance to 1.5 million dollars! Since I knew that something had to give, I found that cutting down on the yearly number of hard-core caving trips was the ticket to keeping my body and wife from rebelling. At approximately 55 such trips per year, I feel a just solution was achieved.

C O N C L U S I O N

The thrill of being the first human to introduce light into the inky blackness of ancient unknown caverns is an overwhelmingly indescribably experience. For me, this experience is even more exalting since the discoveries I have made were achieved by a single apparition which I pursued until my eyes witnessed the unveiling of spectacular unknown and mysterious caverns.

T H E   N E W   E N T R A N C E
B U I L D I N G

With each new year came more caves, more discoveries, more land, more scientific studie, more media attention and more visitors. Finally, after years of planning, I decided to replace the aging World War II Quonset building which sat above Spring Valley Caverns, This building was placed above the sinkhole entrance in 1966 and served as the ticket and souvenir shop for the failed commercialization attempt, and had seen its better days. The decrepit building was literally being swallowed up by the entrance sinkhole poised below it and twice had to be shored up. Fond memories were had by all who fell through the floor boards, got stung by bees nestling in the walls, were snarled at by the raccoons living under the foundation - or those who hoped the concrete walls wouldn't collapse on them as they were descending the steps into the cave. Who can forget the winter thrills of sliding down the iced-over entrance steps with the electric/fuel oil blast heater in tow. Yes, it will be hard to miss the fun one had while attempting to melt the two foot thick ice crust on the rusted steel cave gate without being electrocuted. Then came the thrill of wrestling with the now unfrozen lock, which usually left one with bloody knuckles. This was always a primer for the winter cave trips,

but only after inhaling some of the lead based paint dust that was effusing from every surface of this rusted hulk of a building.

Of course, we knew those days had to pass, for Spring Valley Caverns now commanded respect. It was through this very entrance under the Quonset building that one could travel to wild underground streams and mystic pools, negotiate deep dome pits, photograph fantastic galleries lined with pristine formations, and visit 5.5 miles of diversified terrain. Yes, it was time to build a permanent structure, one that would suitable protect but at the same time represent this significant cavern. I wanted a structure that would last for generations and also mimic the rugged wild nature of the cave system. I knew that such a structure would need to be made from concrete, but even though I had the creativity and vision to pull this off, I also knew I wasn't a structural engineer. Building and designing such a structure would require

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a well-seasoned engineer and contracting firm.

In the late summer of 1997 a local excavating firm was hired to demolish and recycle the old Quonset building. This firm also spent three full days removing fill from the now exposed sinkhole entrance. In doing so, a second major trunk passage, which was discovered several years earlier, was exposed. (It had always been planned to set the new building over both the original passage and this twin, parallel passage.) During this time span I had an older full-sized mobile home transported to what could now officially be called the "job site." Now that the true nature of this sinkhole was exposed, a temporary wood/tarp housing was constructed over the twin passages and a building plan was drafted over the cold winter months.

After a process of elimination, a large well




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established bridge builder was chosen to tackle the project; other large contractors were apprehensive about constructing such a large underground building.

As soon as the snow thawed, they arrived in force with construction trailers, cranes, trackhoes and a host of equipment I never knew existed. They took it upon themselves to beef up the plans somewhat so that I could be guaranteed this building would be built like an iron clad fortress. This 40 foot long by 22 feet wide by 38 foot tall building would be anchored to the exposed bedrock and be composed of one foot thick walls, reinforced with heavy large rebar. In the end, it would be completely nestled into the hill with only the front door and two windows exposed.

After three days of further excavation, the cranes and drill rigs moved in to set anchor points for the three level building. It was jut after this process that I noticed a strange pile of rocks along one of the lower limestone walls. Upon close examination I discovered that the crew workers had attempted to disguise a cave passage that had been intersected by the excavation! (It was later determined that his passage eventually joined into the main cave system). When confronted, the crew sheepishly admitted that they covered it up because they just knew I would make them include this feature in the new building. They were right, and so now the building would encompass three cave passages. About this time a noticeable increase in air traffic occurred over this rural job site, as it must have appeared ass though a meteorite hit, creating a massive crater.

As the summer slipped by, it was apparent to all that this project would consume more time than anyone thought. Most mornings I would arise at 4:20 am for my 1.5 hour commute to check in with the site manager.

Having my own business to run in the Twin Cities, in addition to making time for my family, other hobbies, AND include my Saturday caving trips made time a precious commodity.

After the main building was completed, a separate concrete structure lined with natural limestone was built and attached to the front of the building to create a classic cave-like entrance. Huge hand-chosen limestone blocks were then hauled in from a nearby quarry and fitted in place to serve as natural retaining walls. Relocating the gigantic piles of rocks and dirt that were taken out of the building site was a grueling, two-week job, but finally the entire two acre site was contoured, groomed, and planted with prairie grasses and hardwood trees. This project was started while spring frost was still in the ground and was finally complete in late fall 1998, during the first snowfall.

B U I L D I N G   F E A T U R E S

Some of the interior features were unique and some were necessities. All interior walls were constructed with form liners that imitate rough, hand-laid limestone blocks. A separate interior section of the building was constructed in concrete and fitted with a steel lockable airtight door that serves as the access to the lower cave level. A room that houses all cave emergency gear was constructed from concrete and fitted with a lockable steel door. In addition, a large access hole with a steel cover plate was created in the main floor which allows cavers to sharpen their rope skills while descending from the ceiling and into the cave, 33 feet below. Later, an upper level bunkhouse was created for overnight guests. Even during the coldest winter days the building temperature remains a constant 45-47 degrees.

The building was also designed to be bat friendly to our four native species: Little Brown Bar, Northern Myotis, Big Brown Bat, and the Eastern Pipistrelle. A twelve-inch access pipe, which originates

outside the building and terminates down in the lower cave level, allows our winged friends to come and go as they please.

C A V E   S T A T I S T I C S

Size: About 70 percent of all passages in all caves on the Cave Farm are walking or stoop-walking height and are joint controlled 000 some reaching 100 feet in height. Large rooms are sparse but one that was discovered within Spring Valley Caversns is so large it could contain an entire home! For those who tire easily of such expanses, there is an abundance and variety of tortuous squeezes and crawls.

Pits and domes: Both are found in almost every cave. The vertical relief can reach 61 feet.

Depth from surface: The entrance to caves in this area can be discovered relatively close to the surface, usually 15 to 25 feet. Most of the passages average 50 to 65 feet under the surface. Some caves however, have depths of 135 feet or more below the surface, encompassing three rock layers.

Stream passages: Almost every cave on the Cave Farm has a meandering stream at the lowest level. Spring Valley Caverns sports a spacious, shallow stream passage which stretches for over one ½ mile. Save but true, most original wells in this couty only reached this level. One can visually detect cow manure, small sticks and misc. garbage floating along these underground streams.

Speleothems: A nice variety of flowstone, straws, helictites, shields, stalactites, stalagmites, etc. can be found throughout the caves, including the largest and oldest column in the state, which predates to the last glaciated age. Speleothem carbon dating, combined with fossil studies, is revealing surprising date relating to ancient weather patterns and cavern history.

Temperature: 48 degrees

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